Finishing UP: Once the dead battery starts, remove the connections and the cables in reverse. The black cable is removed from the dead battery, and then the boosted car.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\nWith the automotive scan tool, you have the comfort, smoothness of drive and the least chances of being stuck off. You know what all are happening in your car. And if you take the trouble of carrying a jumper car with you, you can ease out of any battery trouble.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Gone are the days when you had to run to a car mechanic for any trouble in your car. Advancements in car technology have made it possible to detect it through diagnostic computers. The automotive scan tool is an electronic device that is connected to the onboard computer and can test the systems of your car, diagnose the areas of faults, and re-program the control modules. What is an Automotive Car Tool? When programmed perfectly, your car engine makes adjustments to the required fuel mix, ignition coil, and fuel injectors. If you are a home repair enthusiast, you will be happy to use an automotive scan tool. You need to understand the error codes when the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) lights up to give you access to the scanner. Types of Automotive Scan Tools Photo Credit: http:\/\/scantoolcenter.com\/blog\/top-rated-car-diagnostic-tools-review\/ Starting with Handheld code reading, the latest Automotive Scan Tools can now be bi-directional functioning and can be programmed as desired. The following are the three main types. You can link the software programs or the handled diagnostic tools to your desktop or laptop by interpreting the error codes; you can analyze the performance levels of your car. When the warning light is on, it conveys to you the exact problem and can give advice in fixing certain problems. Most Common Models Just as you are supposed to know different automotive parts and their respective functionalities, you must know the step-by-step process of using your scan tool; such as below. Step 1: Use On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) II It is an improved version of OBD I that started in 1994. There are different codes for different faults of your car. You need to learn them. While using OBD II, if the Check Engine light comes, it indicates a failure that may affect the emission and many other problems. Unless all the problems are set right, the light stays, and the code is stored in the computer memory for a definite number of on\/off cycles. You can erase it immediately by using the scan tool. The OBD II scan tester helps you to find answers to simpler problems. It also indicates the possibly of more complicated areas. Then, you can set them right perfectly. Step 2: Interpreting the Code By using and OBD II, you can know certain data related to the operation of your engine, such as the timing of ignition, rotation per minute (RPM), calibration of fuel injection. There are a number of sensors that perform these functions. They are mass airflow sensors, throttle position, oxygen; barometric sensors. Switch position signals and calculator load value. The capture mode of the OBD II enables you to take a brief view of the readings made by other sensors, at the exact occurrence of problems while driving. Step 3: Sensor Scan With the scan tool, you can find out any other problem, not responsible for the warning light of the car engine. The latest generic code is PO713. It is commercially known as Sensor Circuit for Transmission of Fluid Temperature. If the transmission fluid becomes too hot, there may be an immediate failure of the transmission. Just sitting in the driver\u2019s seat, you can troubleshoot many problems by pushing a button, located on the tester. You can check any excess generation of temperature on the computer. Step 4: The Manner of Data Transmission by OBD II Photo Credit: http:\/\/www.autointhebox.com\/2016-new-launch-crp-touch-pro-bluetooth-wifi-scanner-full-system-obdii-eobd-automotive-diagnostic-scan-tools-runs-on-the-android-system-advanced-launch-crp229_p18.html The Powertrain computers are designed to circulate information from sensors and switches to other computers which control transmission, air-conditioning, safety systems, and suspension. These computers also control systems that are responsible for the emission of the engine; it helps the technicians for evaluating troubles. Step 5: Linking a laptop to Automotive Scan Tool Instead of a Handled Scanner, you can use your laptop or PC with the help of a kit. The following is the process of Linking OB II kit to a Laptop: How to Choose the Best Jumper Cables? A Jumper cable is required for jumping start or boosting a discharged battery start the battery and \u2018jump\u2019 you care. For this, you have to connect your discharged battery to another charged battery of a car. The external battery recharges your discharged battery and provides power, enough to crank the engine. If your car starts, the usual charging system recharges your car battery and will restore the charge of the battery. Jumper cables; also known as booster are a pair of insulated wires, fitted with alligator clips at each end. These clips are insulated to avoid, accidental shorting. The clips are made of copper or steel and are colored black and red with (=) and (-) signs to indicate polarity. To choose the best jumper cables, you should take the following into consideration With the automotive scan tool, you have the comfort, smoothness of drive and the least chances of being stuck off. You know what all are happening in your car. And if you take the trouble of carrying a jumper car with you, you can ease out of any battery trouble.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3578,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8,4],"tags":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3360"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3360"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3360\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":21088,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3360\/revisions\/21088"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3578"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3360"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3360"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/drivinglife.net\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3360"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}